Rolling Stock
BVM Hopper Cars - 2
30/09/10 07:24
Once my Boulder Valley hoppers were primed, I lettered them.
My lettering scheme is very simple ... just a number on each side and on each end. I use laser cut stencils and acrylic craft paint to letter my rolling stock. My intention is for the numbers to appear to be hand painted by shop personnel, but not too messy or illegible. I stippled the paint through the stencil with a small, dry brush. Once the paint was dry, I removed the stencil and touched up as needed.
The primed and lettered cars were then sprayed with a heavy application of Testor’s Dullcoat lacquer, and immediately dropped in a box containing rottenstone and soapstone dust. The box was closed up and shaken to assure complete coverage. The cars were removed and allowed to sit for about an hour.
The loose dirt was knocked off the cars, then they were cleaned up with a relatively stiff synthetic paint brush and a can of compressed air.
I applied Bar Mills rust and weathering powders with a small brush, alternating between the rust powders, then going over the same area with grimy black to kill some of the brightness in the rust colors.
The car on the left has had the rust and black powders applied. The car to the right has had the powders applied and also received an alcohol and black ink wash. Very little ink is necessary in the wash, as the powders provide most of the toning.
Very little of the Bar Mills powder is necessary. Very light touches of color will show up pretty intensely on the model. The alcohol wash will blend and knock back the colors to a degree. The alcohol also attacks the Dullcote varnish, causing it to randomly haze and cloud.
After the alcohol and ink wash, I sprayed the cars with fixative and repeated the dust application. Less dust sticks to the cars when they are sprayed with fixative than with Dullcote.
After cleaning, enough dust remains on the cars to blend the coloring and highlight the details.
I tapped and drilled the underframes for Kadee number 58 couplers. The coupler boxes fit nicely into the pockets once the “ears” are trimmed off.
This view shows the enclosures under the slope sheets that contain the buckshot, and the brake wheels applied.
The cars are ready for service on the P&EBR. I used BVM trucks and wheelsets which track very well and put the couplers at precisely the correct height.
In hindsight, the weathering procedure I used on these cars was messy, and probably should have been done outdoors. I had quite a mess to clean up at my modeling bench after these cars were completed.
These were my first resin kits. BVM’s parts were precise and clean and the instructions were excellent, making these cars a good project for a beginner.
My lettering scheme is very simple ... just a number on each side and on each end. I use laser cut stencils and acrylic craft paint to letter my rolling stock. My intention is for the numbers to appear to be hand painted by shop personnel, but not too messy or illegible. I stippled the paint through the stencil with a small, dry brush. Once the paint was dry, I removed the stencil and touched up as needed.
The primed and lettered cars were then sprayed with a heavy application of Testor’s Dullcoat lacquer, and immediately dropped in a box containing rottenstone and soapstone dust. The box was closed up and shaken to assure complete coverage. The cars were removed and allowed to sit for about an hour.
The loose dirt was knocked off the cars, then they were cleaned up with a relatively stiff synthetic paint brush and a can of compressed air.
I applied Bar Mills rust and weathering powders with a small brush, alternating between the rust powders, then going over the same area with grimy black to kill some of the brightness in the rust colors.
The car on the left has had the rust and black powders applied. The car to the right has had the powders applied and also received an alcohol and black ink wash. Very little ink is necessary in the wash, as the powders provide most of the toning.
Very little of the Bar Mills powder is necessary. Very light touches of color will show up pretty intensely on the model. The alcohol wash will blend and knock back the colors to a degree. The alcohol also attacks the Dullcote varnish, causing it to randomly haze and cloud.
After the alcohol and ink wash, I sprayed the cars with fixative and repeated the dust application. Less dust sticks to the cars when they are sprayed with fixative than with Dullcote.
After cleaning, enough dust remains on the cars to blend the coloring and highlight the details.
I tapped and drilled the underframes for Kadee number 58 couplers. The coupler boxes fit nicely into the pockets once the “ears” are trimmed off.
This view shows the enclosures under the slope sheets that contain the buckshot, and the brake wheels applied.
The cars are ready for service on the P&EBR. I used BVM trucks and wheelsets which track very well and put the couplers at precisely the correct height.
In hindsight, the weathering procedure I used on these cars was messy, and probably should have been done outdoors. I had quite a mess to clean up at my modeling bench after these cars were completed.
These were my first resin kits. BVM’s parts were precise and clean and the instructions were excellent, making these cars a good project for a beginner.
BVM Hopper Cars - 1
08/09/10 08:10
Several years ago I purchased a Two-Pack of Boulder Valley Models hopper cars from John Weigel. I had no real experience building resin kits, so the unopened box sat on my shelf for a long time.
In the meantime I completed the trackwork on the P&EBR, and began running trains. In order to move coal from the transfer with the Chesapeake & Ohio to the mill and shops at Piedmont, I needed some hoppers. I finally opened the BVM kit and scrubbed all the resin parts with soap and water.
All the parts of the kit were well made, and the instructions were excellent. Being inexperienced at this, I followed the instructions pretty precisely. One of the early steps in construction is installing all the wire grabirons, which required drilling mounting holes in the car sides.
The carbody was built up from the frame. I found a flat, steel work surface helpful for making sure all parts were aligned while the glue set. I used ACC “slow cure” glue to assemble the cars. If this was “slow”, I would hate to see “fast”! I only had about 10 seconds of wiggle time before the parts were bonded together permanently.
Once the carbodies were complete, I began assembly of the hopper doors. I found the quick grabbing glue particularly troublesome as I was trying to adjust and align the position of the doors.
With the bodies of the hoppers close to completion, it occurred to me that they were very lightweight, and there was nothing in the instructions about adding weight.
My single major departure from the assembly instructions was to add two small enclosures to each car. I used styrene sheet to add a small floor and wall to the frame directly below the slope sheets.
Inside each of the enclosures I caulked a line of buckshot in place. The shot are small enough to not interfere with the placement of the slope sheets, and they add a considerable amount of weight in a very inconspicuous location, lowering the center of gravity of the cars as well.
Before installing the slope sheets, I spray painted the cars with dark gray primer. I also primed the BVM trucks I had purchased and assembled for these cars, and blackened the wheelsets in Micro Engineering Rail Weathering solution.
It was when I was fitting the slope sheets in place that I realized the end sections of the cars were slightly warped. I had to do some creative filing and sanding in order to get tight joints where the slope sheets met the car ends.
The cars were ready for lettering and weathering.
In the meantime I completed the trackwork on the P&EBR, and began running trains. In order to move coal from the transfer with the Chesapeake & Ohio to the mill and shops at Piedmont, I needed some hoppers. I finally opened the BVM kit and scrubbed all the resin parts with soap and water.
All the parts of the kit were well made, and the instructions were excellent. Being inexperienced at this, I followed the instructions pretty precisely. One of the early steps in construction is installing all the wire grabirons, which required drilling mounting holes in the car sides.
The carbody was built up from the frame. I found a flat, steel work surface helpful for making sure all parts were aligned while the glue set. I used ACC “slow cure” glue to assemble the cars. If this was “slow”, I would hate to see “fast”! I only had about 10 seconds of wiggle time before the parts were bonded together permanently.
Once the carbodies were complete, I began assembly of the hopper doors. I found the quick grabbing glue particularly troublesome as I was trying to adjust and align the position of the doors.
With the bodies of the hoppers close to completion, it occurred to me that they were very lightweight, and there was nothing in the instructions about adding weight.
My single major departure from the assembly instructions was to add two small enclosures to each car. I used styrene sheet to add a small floor and wall to the frame directly below the slope sheets.
Inside each of the enclosures I caulked a line of buckshot in place. The shot are small enough to not interfere with the placement of the slope sheets, and they add a considerable amount of weight in a very inconspicuous location, lowering the center of gravity of the cars as well.
Before installing the slope sheets, I spray painted the cars with dark gray primer. I also primed the BVM trucks I had purchased and assembled for these cars, and blackened the wheelsets in Micro Engineering Rail Weathering solution.
It was when I was fitting the slope sheets in place that I realized the end sections of the cars were slightly warped. I had to do some creative filing and sanding in order to get tight joints where the slope sheets met the car ends.
The cars were ready for lettering and weathering.
Rock Cars
11/11/09 12:38
The Piedmont & East Blue Ridge is an industrial roadroad serving several quarries, Consequently, it will haul a large volume of stone. I needed a few cars suited for hauling broken waste stone, and Chivers 20 foot ore cars seemed to fill the bill.
These are gable bottom gondolas built on the standard Chivers flat car as a base. Construction of the styrene carbody was straightforward. I sprayed it with black automobile primer, not worrying too much about getting complete coverage.
The gable bottom of the car has gussets underneath lifting the center of the floor just enough for a row of #3 steel buckshot to fit under it. On top of the floor I glued down a new paper floor with seam and rivet detail embossed in it. The floor was spray painted auto primer rust with black overspray.
I have built enough pairs of Chivers trucks now that I am getting reasonably good results. These came out free rolling, and the brake hangers are pretty straight. The wheelsets are painted scale black and the frames are sprayed primer rust.
The cars got a rough, almost sloppy lettering job. Contrary to appearances, I did use stencils.
The cars and trucks were soaked with a heavy coat of fixative, then dumped in a box of soapstone powder and shaken.
After the fixative had time to dry, I used a brush to knock all the loose powder off the cars and trucks. All metal parts received a wash of Rust-All, and the trucks were touched up with black Bar Mills weathering chalk. Then the cars got an overall wash of 91% isopropyl alcohol and india ink.
Trucks and couplers installed, the cars are ready for stone service on the railroad.
These are gable bottom gondolas built on the standard Chivers flat car as a base. Construction of the styrene carbody was straightforward. I sprayed it with black automobile primer, not worrying too much about getting complete coverage.
The gable bottom of the car has gussets underneath lifting the center of the floor just enough for a row of #3 steel buckshot to fit under it. On top of the floor I glued down a new paper floor with seam and rivet detail embossed in it. The floor was spray painted auto primer rust with black overspray.
I have built enough pairs of Chivers trucks now that I am getting reasonably good results. These came out free rolling, and the brake hangers are pretty straight. The wheelsets are painted scale black and the frames are sprayed primer rust.
The cars got a rough, almost sloppy lettering job. Contrary to appearances, I did use stencils.
The cars and trucks were soaked with a heavy coat of fixative, then dumped in a box of soapstone powder and shaken.
After the fixative had time to dry, I used a brush to knock all the loose powder off the cars and trucks. All metal parts received a wash of Rust-All, and the trucks were touched up with black Bar Mills weathering chalk. Then the cars got an overall wash of 91% isopropyl alcohol and india ink.
Trucks and couplers installed, the cars are ready for stone service on the railroad.
Work Caboose - 4
27/06/09 09:56
After testing the fit of all the pieces, the flatcar and cabin received their initiation. I sprayed them with matte fixative, and while they were still wet I dumped them in a box of soapstone dust and rottenstone.
I throughly coated the car parts with dirt, and let them sit long enough for the fixative to dry. Then I cleaned the parts with a cheap 1 inch paint brush, removing all the loose dirt.
The parts then got brush painted with rust details, and received several earth tone and ink washes. I glazed the window with acrylic.
I cut a square of leftover roofing and sprayed it lightly with red oxide primer to make it look like cheap tin flashing, and used it for the smokejack.
Brass wire was used for grabirons and the brakestem. Trucks and couplers were highlighted and installed.
Lead weight on the floor in the cabin lowered the center of gravity of the car and make it less prone to tip and rock. The crate and old tires are an HO scale flatcar load.
The work caboose is ready for service on the P&EBR.
I throughly coated the car parts with dirt, and let them sit long enough for the fixative to dry. Then I cleaned the parts with a cheap 1 inch paint brush, removing all the loose dirt.
The parts then got brush painted with rust details, and received several earth tone and ink washes. I glazed the window with acrylic.
I cut a square of leftover roofing and sprayed it lightly with red oxide primer to make it look like cheap tin flashing, and used it for the smokejack.
Brass wire was used for grabirons and the brakestem. Trucks and couplers were highlighted and installed.
Lead weight on the floor in the cabin lowered the center of gravity of the car and make it less prone to tip and rock. The crate and old tires are an HO scale flatcar load.
The work caboose is ready for service on the P&EBR.
Work Caboose Construction - 3
14/06/09 22:16
Once the roof was warped, I decked it with stripwood, shot it with gray primer, then brush painted gray and earth tone stains on the individual boards.
Then I sprayed kraft paper on both sides with black primer. I cut the paper into strips about 3 scale feet wide, then trimmed pieces to paper the roof.
I sanded all the cut edges off the pieces of kraft paper, and glued them to the roof with matte medium.
I brush painted the cabin for the work caboose Rondel Red, with a little gray mixed in toward the bottom of the siding. I sprayed the interior of the cabin and the floor black. I brush painted gray and earth tone stains on the individual deck and sideboards of the car.
I wanted the lettering on the car to be simple, and to appear to be done by hand. I used a stencil set made for me by Chris Jessee at KingMill Enterprises to paint the number on the car.
Here are the various parts of the car loosely fitted; the roof is sitting on the cabin, the cabin is sitting on the car, and the car is just sitting on the trucks.
Then I sprayed kraft paper on both sides with black primer. I cut the paper into strips about 3 scale feet wide, then trimmed pieces to paper the roof.
I sanded all the cut edges off the pieces of kraft paper, and glued them to the roof with matte medium.
I brush painted the cabin for the work caboose Rondel Red, with a little gray mixed in toward the bottom of the siding. I sprayed the interior of the cabin and the floor black. I brush painted gray and earth tone stains on the individual deck and sideboards of the car.
I wanted the lettering on the car to be simple, and to appear to be done by hand. I used a stencil set made for me by Chris Jessee at KingMill Enterprises to paint the number on the car.
Here are the various parts of the car loosely fitted; the roof is sitting on the cabin, the cabin is sitting on the car, and the car is just sitting on the trucks.
Work Caboose Construction - 2
23/05/09 09:59
I added some stripwood framing to the window,
and stripwood slats for the sideboards.
I used CA glue to attach the wooden slats to the plastic side posts.
A scribed sheet was provided in the Cache Creek kit for the roof. I wet it and bent it around a can to warp it to match the curve at the top of the end walls.
Once the sideboards were dry, the flatcar got another shot of primer. I painted the inside of the cabin black, and the trim on the cabin Armour Dark Green.
and stripwood slats for the sideboards.
I used CA glue to attach the wooden slats to the plastic side posts.
A scribed sheet was provided in the Cache Creek kit for the roof. I wet it and bent it around a can to warp it to match the curve at the top of the end walls.
Once the sideboards were dry, the flatcar got another shot of primer. I painted the inside of the cabin black, and the trim on the cabin Armour Dark Green.
Starting on Car Construction
10/05/09 21:30
I find the trucks to be the most difficult part of building a Chivers kit. I deviated from the instructions a bit and used a great construction tip I saved off Geren Mortensen’s old On30 forum. Once assembled, the trucks are very free-wheeling and look great.
The sideframes of Chivers flatcars have the posts and pockets molded on, so I cut and sanded them off where the Cache Creek structure will slide down over the sides.
I discovered that a block from a 2 x 4 stud fits exactly between the sideposts, making a nice jig to hold the car while assembling the underframe.
The hardest part of assembling the underframe is threading the trussrods over the queenposts and under the bolsters.
Moving on to the Cache Creek resin caboose, I found this clamp in my tool drawer. It is really the bomb when it comes to holding the walls together at the corner for gluing.
Fast setting CA glue and the right angle clamp had the caboose body together in no time.
A test fit of the Cache Creek caboose on the Chivers flatcar.
Supply Car Kitbash
29/04/09 09:37
As I created the paperwork for operating the Piedmont & East Blue Ridge, I included waybills for “Less than Carload Lot” freight and merchandise to be picked up at the Winwood connection with the C&O Railroad. LCL would best be handled by a small box car or a passenger car with a freight compartment. The P&EBR did not have a car that fit this description.
I dug through my collected kits, and found a small Cache Creek resin 10 ft. supply car. I opened it up and spread the parts out. The issue that immediately struck me was the underframe. Not sure what wheelset and coupler combination would yield the correct coupler height, I decided to build the frame of the kit first.
Inserting wheelsets into the castings and holding the whole thing together with a rubber band, a problem became apparent. All four wheels were not touching the railhead. A small bearing hole in one of the castings was out of line.
For a modeler with more experience and the right tools, this might not present a serious problem, but I am not prepared to deal with this sort of thing. So I began to search for alternatives for a car to be used to haul LCL freight.
At about this time, the Railroad Lines Forums started a Rolling Stock Challenge. Many of the initial posts were suggestions for building some sort of maintenance or crew car. This got me to thinking about mixing and matching parts of different kits to come up with the car I needed.
Casting about through the kits I had on hand, I discovered that a Chivers flatcar deck was precisely the width of the structure from the Cache Creek kit. This opened up the possibility of building a unique car out of two kits.
Combining the Chivers flat car with the Cache Creek supply car may provide the P&EBR with a solution to its LCL problem, and also provide the maintenance crews with a tool car.
I dug through my collected kits, and found a small Cache Creek resin 10 ft. supply car. I opened it up and spread the parts out. The issue that immediately struck me was the underframe. Not sure what wheelset and coupler combination would yield the correct coupler height, I decided to build the frame of the kit first.
Inserting wheelsets into the castings and holding the whole thing together with a rubber band, a problem became apparent. All four wheels were not touching the railhead. A small bearing hole in one of the castings was out of line.
For a modeler with more experience and the right tools, this might not present a serious problem, but I am not prepared to deal with this sort of thing. So I began to search for alternatives for a car to be used to haul LCL freight.
At about this time, the Railroad Lines Forums started a Rolling Stock Challenge. Many of the initial posts were suggestions for building some sort of maintenance or crew car. This got me to thinking about mixing and matching parts of different kits to come up with the car I needed.
Casting about through the kits I had on hand, I discovered that a Chivers flatcar deck was precisely the width of the structure from the Cache Creek kit. This opened up the possibility of building a unique car out of two kits.
Combining the Chivers flat car with the Cache Creek supply car may provide the P&EBR with a solution to its LCL problem, and also provide the maintenance crews with a tool car.
Chivers Flatcar
26/11/08 21:46
My first On30 kit is a Chivers 20 foot flatcar from International Hobbies.
I was initially not aware that the stakes were molded into the stake pockets. I decided to put add low sideboards and trim the posts short. Some cast metal barrels, nail kegs, and other details in the car with add some needed weight.
The next kit on the bench was a Cache Creek work caboose. Just after I started on it, the weather here in central Virginia turned unseasonably cold, too cold to spray paint outside. So the caboose has been put away for the time being, and the crews are back to laying track.
I was initially not aware that the stakes were molded into the stake pockets. I decided to put add low sideboards and trim the posts short. Some cast metal barrels, nail kegs, and other details in the car with add some needed weight.
The next kit on the bench was a Cache Creek work caboose. Just after I started on it, the weather here in central Virginia turned unseasonably cold, too cold to spray paint outside. So the caboose has been put away for the time being, and the crews are back to laying track.
First flatcars
27/07/08 21:37
The first flatcars out of the company shops
I used soapstone powder to weather these Bachmann flatcars. I could use some practice in order to gain more control over the effect.
I used soapstone powder to weather these Bachmann flatcars. I could use some practice in order to gain more control over the effect.
Something to Run
12/07/08 10:55
With a considerable amount of the track in place, it was becoming apparent that I had nothing to run on my new layout.
I am beginning to put together a freight car fleet for the P&EBR. The first flatcars and boxcars are Bachmann ready to run. Once I have some painting and weathering experience, I will advance to Chivers and Boulder Valley kits.
I am trying to come up with a simple, repeatable process that yields acceptable results. Particularly in the case of ready to run models, I would like to have an assembly line approach that does not require a great deal of individual attention being given to the paint and finish.
This initial test flatcar came out reasonably well without a lot of effort. The most aggravating part of the process was applying decals. I think I will create art for polyester stencils to be laser cut by Kingmill Enterprises.
I am beginning to put together a freight car fleet for the P&EBR. The first flatcars and boxcars are Bachmann ready to run. Once I have some painting and weathering experience, I will advance to Chivers and Boulder Valley kits.
I am trying to come up with a simple, repeatable process that yields acceptable results. Particularly in the case of ready to run models, I would like to have an assembly line approach that does not require a great deal of individual attention being given to the paint and finish.
This initial test flatcar came out reasonably well without a lot of effort. The most aggravating part of the process was applying decals. I think I will create art for polyester stencils to be laser cut by Kingmill Enterprises.
Arkansas Railroad Supply
15/03/08 11:21
As trackwork progresses, I am spending more time thinking about the operation of the layout. This will require more rolling stock than I currently have on hand.
I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to purchase some models from Bill Davis. Bill is an outstanding modeler whose work is often associated with Tom Yorke Studios. I purchased this Porter Diesel model from Bill.
It is a Tom Yorke resin kit built on a Bachmann Trolley power truck. Bill did an incredible job of detailing and finishing this model.
I purchased one of these kits myself along with a Trolley donor, but have not started on it yet. I will be using Bill's model as a reference.
I also picked up this little flatcar from Bill. It is the first in a large fleet of flatcars that will be hauling stone on the East Blue Ridge.
I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to purchase some models from Bill Davis. Bill is an outstanding modeler whose work is often associated with Tom Yorke Studios. I purchased this Porter Diesel model from Bill.
It is a Tom Yorke resin kit built on a Bachmann Trolley power truck. Bill did an incredible job of detailing and finishing this model.
I purchased one of these kits myself along with a Trolley donor, but have not started on it yet. I will be using Bill's model as a reference.
I also picked up this little flatcar from Bill. It is the first in a large fleet of flatcars that will be hauling stone on the East Blue Ridge.